Sunday, March 22, 2020

Why we Love Larry Hogan

You've probably heard of "the Metro" ... the subway system that serves DC, Maryland, and Virginia (the DMV).  Each line has a color assigned, and every budget item needs to be approved by the leaders of the DMV.  Well, Gov. Hogan earned my respect when he said he'd veto the Metro Expansion for the Purple Line ... said it was too expensive and we could not afford it.  So what happened ???  The steering committee cut back on a few stops to make it "affordable" ... so then Hogan approved it, saying "now THAT we can afford". 

Then when he disagreed with Ass-Hat Trump, well, couldn't love him more.

He's been very public with his cancer battles ... In 2015, Hogan revealed he’d been fighting skin cancer and appeared in public with his white mane gone and bandages on his face. “Before you get into speculation about what the other guy looked like, I wanted to tell you about it,” he joked.

Image result for larry hogan bandages

Man's got a sense of humor !!!

But what impressed me most, I think, is when in early March, he announced that he was signing over all duties of governor to his Lt. Governor because "running the state is easy when compared to fighting a pandemic, and as of today, that will be my only job".

Taken from NBC's web site 

https://www.nbcnews.com/news/us-news/maryland-gov-larry-hogan-emerges-leader-early-action-coronavirus-n1164256

By Corky Siemaszko

Maryland Gov. Larry Hogan emerges as a leader in early action on coronavirus

The GOP governor took action while Trump was still calling the pandemic a ''hoax."

Maryland Gov. Larry Hogan went before the cameras last week and broke some bad news to his constituents — the state had recorded its first death from the coronavirus.

“We pray for his family,” Hogan said of the victim, a man in his 60s with an underlying condition. “Unfortunately, we are only at the beginning of this crisis and while this is the first death in Maryland it will not be the last.”

Hogan also noted that a 5-year-old girl was among the confirmed coronavirus cases in the state, a development all the more alarming because the vast majority of infected people have been older.

“This fight against pandemic is a race against time and we must take action now,” Hogan said. “We cannot afford to delay.”

That has been Hogan’s mantra from the start of the crisis. The Republican governor took steps to protect Marylanders on Feb. 27, when he first inked parts of emergency legislation to increase funds for the fight, cancelling out-of-state travel for state workers, establishing a help-line for the public and meeting regularly with his coronavirus response team. In comparison, on the following day, Trump called the coronavirus “new hoax” drummed-up by Democrats to damage him and his administration.

Hogan also declared a state of emergency in Maryland on March 5 — more than a week before President Trump made a nationwide emergency declaration.

The end result is that Hogan and fellow governor Andrew Cuomo, Democrat of New York, have at times eclipsed Trump as a national leaders in the battle against the deadly pandemic. And the steps Hogan has taken in Maryland to combat the coronavirus have been as aggressive as those taken by other take-charge governors in hard-hit states like Mike DeWine of Ohio, who is also a Republican, and Jay Inslee of Washington and J.B. Pritzker in Illinois, both Democrats.

Hogan hasn't been shy about criticizing the Trump administration’s slow response in the first days of the crisis or its inability to say for sure when badly needed supplies like masks, ventilators and test kits will be available.

“I can tell you that there's quite a bit of frustration on the part of all of the governors that we don't have answers to those questions,” Hogan said earlier in the week. “And the first answer is no, we don't have enough test kits and neither does any other state, and no, the federal government does not have an answer.”

Hogan’s frustration comes from a deeply personal place — he is a 63-year-old cancer survivor, putting him in one of highest risk categories for coronavirus complications. So his life depends on this.

But the fact that Hogan has been willing to criticize the Trump administration does not come as a surprise for people who have followed the career of a Republican who was first elected governor in 2014 and was re-elected four years later in a deep blue state.

Hogan, who is only the second Republican to be re-elected in the state’s history, was “never a fan” of Trump and made that clear even before he won the GOP nomination in 2016, said Todd Eberly, associate professor of political science at St. Mary’s College of Maryland.

“What set Hogan apart from other Trump critics, however, is that most of those critics eventually fell in line behind Trump or left office,” Eberly said. “Hogan governs in a different manner and has rarely hesitated to criticize or disagree with Trump — sometimes forcefully and sometimes more subtly.”

Last July, when Trump lashed out against revered Baltimore congressman Elijah Cummings, a Democrat, and called his Baltimore district “dangerous” and “disgusting,” Hogan fired back via his spokeswoman saying “Baltimore City is truly the very head of our state.”

When it comes to Hogan's aggressive approach to the coronavirus crisis, none of the academics and journalists interviewed by NBC News found fault. "I haven't heard a whiff of serious criticism," said Josh Kurtz, editor of the Maryland Matters news site, who has covered Hogan for years.

"Gov. Hogan has been way ahead of the federal government in addressing and responding to the coronavirus,” Kurtz added. “He's been proactive and open with Marylanders. In his role as chairman of the National Governors Association, he's been involved in some of the earliest federal briefings on the virus and has been good about relaying that information to his team and to his constituents."

When NBC News reached out to Senate President Bill Ferguson, a Democrat who has sparred with Hogan in the past on various issues, Ferguson's spokesman gave an assessment of Hogan that could pass for praise in these politically fraught times: "We have nothing negative to contribute at this point," said Yaakov Weissmann in an email.

Hogan, unlike Trump, was quick to recognize the coronavirus threat and quick to mobilize the other U.S. governors, Eberly said.

“As chair of the National Governors Association, Hogan was already in a leadership role and I think he used that role quite wisely to get people to understand just how serious the situation was,” Eberly said.

How has Hogan managed to thrive in a blue state like Maryland during a period of intense political polarization?

Part of it is Marylanders just like Hogan, the experts said. He is married father of three, grandfather of four, and his wife Yumi Hogan is the "first Korean-American first lady in United States history," according to his official biography.

“He exudes competence and confidence,” said Stella Rouse, associate professor of government and politics at the University of Maryland.

And Hogan’s not afraid to tell off his constituents when he sees them straying from the rules that have been set in place to protect them.

“Despite our warnings, despite rapid escalation of virus, some people are treating this like vacation with parties and large gatherings,” Hogan said during his Thursday update. “If you are engaged in this type of activity, you are in violation of state law and are endangering lives of fellow Marylanders.”

Another reason Hogan thrives, Kurtz said, is that “Maryland isn't as liberal as people assume it is.”

“Hogan has found the sweet spot where a lot of the voters are,” Kurtz said. “He's held the line on taxes and a lot of people like that. He's a pretty unassuming guy, and handled a cancer diagnosis early in his tenure with good humor, grace and grit.”

In 2015, Hogan revealed he’d been fighting skin cancer and appeared in public with his white mane gone and bandages on his face. “Before you get into speculation about what the other guy looked like, I wanted to tell you about it,” he joked.

Rouse said Hogan is more a pragmatist and less of an ideologue, which is a rarity in the national Republican Party these days.

“The result is he has a lot of political capital in a state that is 2 to 1 Democratic,” Rouse said.

Eberly agreed.

“He made clear when he ran for governor that abortion and marriage equality were settled law and he had no desire to re-litigate them,” Eberly said. “On gun control, he made no mention of dialing back what Democrats had accomplished.”

Now, Eberly said, Hogan maintains a statewide approval rating that “seems to defy gravity.”

Kurtz said there is already talk of Hogan running for Senate in 2022 when his term ends, but what might dissuade him is that he would have to take on Sen. Chris Van Hollen, who is a Democrat.

“Van Hollen is pretty popular, and a Republican hasn't won a Senate race in Maryland since 1980,” Kurtz said.

Hogan could also, conceivably, run for president in four years.

“Hogan likes to describe himself as a John McCain/George H.W. Bush kind of a Republican,” Kurtz said. “If that kind of a Republican ever comes back in fashion, he could be a serious contender.”

--------------------------------

28 June 2020 Update ... his last press release continues to be the man I want as president ... compare this to Arizona, Texas, and Florida:

“While yesterday the United States saw a record number of COVID-19 cases, in Maryland, our key health metrics continue to trend in a positive direction. Our daily positivity rate reached a new low of 4.38%, and our seven-day positivity rate fell to 5.05%. Our total current hospitalizations have dropped to 511, their lowest level in 83 days. We have now conducted more than 600,000 tests, and have nearly 200 testing sites available across the state.
“As we continue to safely reopen, it is important to remember that this crisis is still not behind us. More than 65,000 Marylanders have been infected, and more than 3,000 Marylanders have now lost their lives to this deadly virus. We mourn each and every loss.
“Because of our early and aggressive actions, Maryland is better positioned for an economic comeback than nearly every other state in America. Our unemployment rate is more than one-third better than the national average. We have led, and will continue to lead, on the road to economic recovery.
“Now more than ever, as we begin to come into contact with more people, we must all continue to remain vigilant. Our health and economic recovery depends on all of us continuing to exercise personal responsibility in order to keep ourselves, our family members, our neighbors, and our coworkers safe. We encourage all Marylanders to get tested, wear a mask, and practice physical distancing.

“Throughout this crisis, Marylanders have been strong, resilient, and they have never lost hope. And now, while we still have miles to go on our road to recovery, I have no doubt that the people of our great state will continue setting an example for the rest of the nation.”

Saturday, March 21, 2020

Obtaining a Handgun Qualification License (HQL) in Maryland

It's pretty straight forward ... and I applaud the process ... I am all for ownership rights, but also all for keeping guns out of the hands of assholes.

Bought a handgun from grabagun.com ... good price and reviews gave the gun I choose good marks for the price.  They cannot ship you the weapon (either handgun or long gun) ... it has to go to an Federal Firearms Licensed dealer in your area.  Grab A Gun has a good link to ones in your area, so use their list.  The FFL will receive the gun and you go in with your HQL and Drivers License to get it handed over.  The FFL I choose charges $50 for a long gun handover and $100 for a handgun.

Anyway, the process is straight forward ... get your training on handgun safety ... you can find places that can do the process here.  I did not need to do this as I am ex-military, so I used my DD214 to get it waived.

Then, go here to get the process moving with the Maryland State Police (you need to setup an account).  Only thing to note is that the web site is not very intuitive ... just note the menu system on the left of the page and you won't have any issues.  I found one person / site that said you needed to use Microsofts browser, but I use Chrome and had no issues.

You'll need to input your DD214 or Training Certificate information while filling out the application.  Once that's gone as far as you can, you need to get finger printed via the "LiveScan" system ... you can find all the people who can do it here.  You can also use Google Maps, bring up your area, and search for "Live Scan" ... you'll find tons of groups that do it in your area.  They all should charge around $50, and some require appointments, but for myself, I found one in a small town and was able to walk in ... zero wait time.  You get a receipt that has your file number.

NOTE:  That file is only available to the Maryland State Police for a few days, so don't delay (at least that's what I was told).

Now, go back to your application site here to continue ... input your fingerprinting receipt number, answer 20 questions (like "am I nuts" ... yes / no) and then you can PAY FEEs ... $50.  Careful on the questions ... you get into the habit of answering NO, then at the end it asks "are you a US citizen" and "is everything the truth" so I'd advise switching over to YES for those two (but that's just me).

Wait up to 30 days and the license arrives (assuming you did everything right).  But, your not yet done.

You now need to complete your form 77R at the Maryland State Police Licensing Portal.  So yet another web site here ... and there you input pretty much the same information, except now you need to input your Handgun Qualification License number.  Within an hour, you will get an email with your PIN number.  Take that PIN number to the FFL where your handgun is located (or about to be bought) and you AND they fill out a form to submit (and pay the transfer fee).  From there, you wait 7 days and THEN you can take your gun.  Note that 7 days is not 7 FULL days, but 7 days, so if, like me, you fill out your paperwork on a Tuesday at 3 PM, you wait thru:
Day 1:  The Tuesday you completed the form.
Day 2:  Wednesday
Day 3:  Thursday
Day 4:  Friday
Day 5:  Saturday
Day 6:  Sunday
Day 7:  Monday
So on the following Tuesday, you can pick up the gun.

Sunday, March 15, 2020

Hacking Digital Signatures in PDFs

The following is done on a Windows 10 machine.

The new W4 statements [Form W-4 (2020)] you have to fill out were created with digital signatures, so when you look at permissions, you find:
      Changing the Document:  Not Allowed
      Document Assembly:  Not Allowed

So I wondered ... how do you unlock "signed PDF" files ... you can only input where they allow you to input ... pre-set form fields!  Personally, I find this un-acceptable ... I have my signature in a pre-scanned TRANSPARENT PNG file so that (since I have Acrobat), I can drop in that signature so the form is complete.

In the past I just printed it to a PDF, but digital signatures retain the security of "NOT ALLOWED" ... sigh.  Well, it took me a few hours to figure this out, and "technically" your not unlocking it ... but instead "re-creating it" (which, if I'm being honest, that is what I do when I PRINT to a PDF and then put in graphics and text boxes. 

Anyway, to do this, do a PRINT to your standard printer, and you:
1) in the PRINT dialog, click ADVANCED
2) click the boxes PRINT TO FILE and PRINT AS IMAGE ... I choose 600 DPI
3) OK it and print it ... and it prints to a PRN file.
4) PRN is Post Script, so change the extension to .PS

Now, go to the web site:  www.ps2pdf.com ... you don't need to install anything (but I was so impressed, I did install the CHROME extension) and you upload the PS file ... and in about 1 minute, I was able to download a PDF. 

Once downloaded, open in Adobe Acrobat and do the RECOGNIZE TEXT function to turn it into something that you can more easily use.  Once done, you can insert or edit away.

Tuesday, March 3, 2020

Wendy's Breakfast Sucks ...

as of 3 March 2020 ...

First shot try got both sandwiches wrong ... and found shell in the egg.

Second try got us soggy bacon, and "cheese" seems to be put on with a paint brush.  I find the sausage patty too spicy and my last bite of sandwich (only could stomach half) found under cooked egg.

Fries/Potatoes under-whelming.

I will say, however, that I do like the Honey Chicken Biscuit ... that was good ... you can actually smell the honey when your un-wrapping it.

Saturday, February 1, 2020

Free Faxing

You can pretty much do free faxing if your willing to use 2 sites.  The only limitation is that "free" on the sending means 1 page.  Please note that I have NO FINANCIAL ARRANGEMENT WITH EITHER SITE.  This information is based on using them over the past year.

SENDING:

For sending, I use "gotfreefax.com".  The "free" means you need to send only 1 page, which I have found FITS just fine ... just be careful and clear.  Just about all my needs fit on 1 page.

You can send PDFs, Docs, and JPGs.  Never used JPGs, but DOCs and PDFs work just fine.

If you use the FREE approach (red circle in picture), you get 3 emails from them ...
1:  Verify your email address (I have never gotten SPAM from them).
2:  It's in process
3:  It's done.

However, if you need to send multiple pages, you can buy blocks of pages ... see the black circled item ... 100 pages for $10, so 10 cents/page.  I bought a block over a year ago and I'm still using them whenever the FREE doesn't fit my needs.


RECEIVING:

For receiving faxes, I use "faxburner.com" ... the only limitation is that the phone number you give to people is only good for 24 hours.  If you pay them, they will give you a permanent number, but for my needs, 24 hours is just fine:




Wednesday, December 25, 2019

Bio-Advanced Moss & Algae Killer & Cleaner ... and using your own garden sprayer

I tried the Bio-Advanced 2-in-1 Moss & Algae Killer & Cleaner on the front half of my Cape Cod style house (I live in Southern Maryland).  I killed all the algae, turning it all yellow.  However, to get up to the top of the roof (which is really needed on the back of the roof), I needed a jet spray attachment ... and that is where Bio-Advanced said NO.  Their position is that you must use it with the hose end sprayer it comes with.  Now, I respect that, but it's too dangerous for me to get up on the pitched roof (I'm approaching 70 !!).




So, I decided to do some experimentation.  I cut open the original containers to get the sprayer off, and save the chemical.



You need to cut up high as the container is very full with chemical.  To the right of the Moss Killer is my test tube.  I measured out 25 ml (you can use anything really ... a shot glass even !!) and connected the sprayer up.  It took 10.01 seconds to empty the 25 ml.

So then, I repeated the experiment with my Ortho Sprayer.


Of course, I had the sprayer off the original Ortho base ... and dipped the hose into the solution (same 25 ml) and timed it.  Found that the 4 ounce setting got the same time ... 10.03 seconds.

So I sprayed the roof, and as assumed, it took about the same amount of time as when I did the front part.

The algae on the front and back died, so then I had a "roof cleaner" come out and sweep off the roof and spray their own chemical ... it wasn't needed, but that was the agreement.

Anyway, I then decided to spray my driveway where I needed to walk it without a hose available (it's 600 feet long), so I used the same Bio-Advanced Moss & Algae Killer & Cleaner, sprayed it into a large container then poured the resulting chemical into a hand pump sprayer and walked my entire driveway killing algae ... worked like a charm.








Sunday, March 17, 2019

Happy St. Patricks Day

May the most you wish for
be the least you get.

May the best times you’ve ever had
be the worst you will ever see.

Sunday, December 31, 2017

Spondoolies SP-20 and Spondoolies SP-35 cleaning

DISCLAIMER:  BOTH THE 20 AND 35 HAVE DIED.



Overhauling Spondoolies Bit Coin Miners

I own both the SP-20 and an SP-35.  Recently they started getting intermittent, so I decided to clean them up and do new thermal grease (since that’s about all you can do when the OEM goes out of business).  These are the steps I took … didn’t use ESD precautions, but I know how to handle parts, so I was not too worried.  Your mileage may vary.

Make sure you have thermal paste on hand … ArcticSilver is what I use.

The SP-20 is the hardest to do from the perspective of “how to take apart” while the SP-35 takes a lot of hours.

The SP-20

For orientation, when the unit is lying on a table, the RJ-45 is at the top edge.  So, take out the three screws at the top of each side and remove the top.  Now, you will see two ribbon cables running into the controller card … slide those off … there are no clips … just pressure holds them on.

Now with the cables off, take out the next three screws (from each side) and the sub-assembly that holds the controller card with the RJ-45 connector is now loose … but ... be careful to ensure that the ribbon cables don’t get in the way as your removing it, and “hinge” it towards the rear as the rear fans are wired to the controller card.

Once removed, you’ll see the two miner cards in there, loose.  Look at the stamped metal you removed … there are guides there that the two miner cards go into during re-assembly … remember them. Now, remove each miner card and set them aside.

Now blow out the chassis metal that’s left … blow off the controller card assembly, and blow off the miner cards.

For each miner card, remove the heat sinks (2 screws each) and blow the dust off.  Clean the old thermal grease off the heat sinks with 99% isopropyl alcohol (70% will do, but 99% is best).  Then, clean the old grease off the chips … properly cleaned, the chip tops should look like little mirrors.  Never touch either the chip or heat sink with bare hands … and remember that all surfaces are only clean via an alcohol wipe down.  I used Nitrile gloves to ensure that no skin oils got on any surfaces.

Apply a small dab of new grease on each chip, and using a razor blade, spread it out over the entire surface.  It goes far so you only need a tiny amount.  Once you spread the compound out via the razor blade and the top is fully covered, re-install the heat sinks onto each chip … first screw is turned a few turns to set it, and then the other screw is fully screwed in.  Once the second screw is screwed all the way in, finish the first.  These screws should NOT be tight … just turn until it stops.

Once both boards are done, re-seat the boards back in place, in their guides and all way back so their power connectors stick out the back.  Then, put the controller card back into place, making sure the ribbon cables are routed through their cut outs and re-connect them. 
Now you need to move the boards about a bit so that they boards are into their proper position.  The controller assembly metal needs a little bit of force to get the screw holes lined up … the pressure is to ensure that the boards stay in place during movement.  Get each of the 3 screws of each side in … and don’t tighten any until ALL SIX are installed … and THEN tighten them.  Now, put the top back on and put the last 6 screws back in. 


SP-35

Pull the power supplies out and blow them out.

Remove the top via 3 screws in the rear.  Once the screws are out, you slide the top back about ½ inch and remove it.

You have two platters of miner chips … there is a top and a bottom.

But first, by the power supplies you will see two metal plates with 4 screws in each.  Those connect (or link) the power supplies to the processor boards.  Remove all 8 screws (2x4) and remove the links.

For the top miner platter, remove the heat sinks (2 screws each) and blow the dust off the heat sinks.  Clean the old thermal grease off the heat sinks with 99% isopropyl alcohol (70% will do, but 99% is best).  Then, clean the old grease off the chips … properly cleaned, the chip tops should look like little mirrors.  Never touch either the chip or heat sink with bare hands … and remember that all surfaces are only clean via an alcohol wipe down.  I used Nitrile gloves to ensure that no skin oils got on any surfaces.

Now, you will see screws holding that platter down … should be about 10 of them.  Remove those, and notice that by the power supply is a shielded ribbon cable … remove it … no clips … pressure fit only.  Lift out the platter and sit it aside.

Same instructions on the bottom platter … remove heat sinks and blow the dust off.  Then clean the old grease off the chips and sinks.  You can remove the bottom platter if you want … I didn’t.

At this point, you want to blow out the chassis and blow all the dust off the platters … then wipe the chips off in case any dust got on them.

Apply a small dab of new grease on each chip, and using a razor blade, spread it out over the entire surface.  It goes far so you only need a tiny amount.  Once you spread the compound out via the razor blade and the top is fully covered, re-install the heat sinks onto each chip … first screw is turned a few turns to set it, and then the other screw is fully screwed in.  Once the second screw is screwed all the way in, finish the first.  These screws should NOT be tight … just turn until it stops.  Do this to both platters. 

Re-install the top platter and reconnect the ribbon cable and the power links.  Screw the platter back in place.  NOTE:  I found two of the stand offs that the top platter sit on were stripped out from (I assume) poor production processes … so I just left 2 screws out as I didn’t want to disassemble and tap the threads.

Install the top and power supplies and you’re ready to rock, er, mine.

Wednesday, January 18, 2017

Torrents and Seedboxes ...

Many people on line have tried downloading torrents, and then using a torrent engine like utorrent (read: microtorrent) to download a file (maybe the latest HOT movie?).  And inevitably you stumble upon a copyright holder who will file a C&D (cease and desist) against your ISP ... which get's you cut off (because your ISP tracks your IP address and times assigned).

Then, you think "I'll use a VPN and log in thru Hong Kong" so they can't track me ... and that is correct.  But the problem is that setting up a VPN and monitoring it 24/7 takes a lot of time and technical "know how" (at least in Windows it does).  When I tried a VPN, I found that often it would drop off, and my network connection would resume "in the clear" without notifying me ... very frustrating.

Finally, I found the best solution ... a seedbox.  If you don't know what that is, this article describes it better than I can.  But in brief, it is your 'friend' in some "non-tracking country", say The Netherlands, where privacy laws will keep you from ever being disclosed or discovered.  They download the file you want, and you FTP it from them, and since no one can track the contents of FTP activity, no one ever knows you downloaded a "copy-righted" file.

I used UltraSeedBox for over a year, and found that, while they had good pricing, over the last 6 months their Customer Support went to total crap ... so after they LOST my RSS feeds twice, I gave up on them and switched to EVO ... only $5/month, super support (at least at first), and you can even pay them with BitCoin if you REALLY REALLY REALLY want to stay anonymous (I don't, but you can).  But their stability went lacking after a year (they got a virus and wiped out all my RSS feeds and all the files I had stored there ... and offered no way to get them back ... even a "screen grab" to remind me of the files lost would have been nice ... but they just wiped my account and said "sucks to be you").  Also their web interface kept getting hosed up when I would load in a bunch of torrents ... so I  switched to SEEDBOX.IO. ... yes, it's $10/month for the basic package, but well worth it for the stability, speed, and super fast customer support.

Final note ...  if you don't use SEEDBOX.IO and decide to use something else, make sure you ask about PUBLIC versus PRIVATE trackers.  I tried one where only after signing up did I find that they would only work with PRIVATE trackers ... and you don't want that as the options available in the "private" torrents is pretty limited (IMHO).





Sunday, November 20, 2016

Dryer Blower Wheel Stripped ... a quick solution

My dryer blower wheel shaft "spins out" every few years and rattles when the dryer runs. 


You can tell that blower wheel is lose, or stripped, pretty easily because when you turn off the dryer, you can hear the wheel spinning still ... because it's not really attached to anything now.

It's easy to see why ... plastic wheel ... metal shaft ... the plastic is going to lose every time. They tried to make the wheel more resilient by providing a spring clamp that fits over the plastic hub, but it's still not enough pressure.

Since I needed to get my dryer "back on line", I devised a pretty good solution.  I will order another one and install it but will do this same thing on the new wheel.

Take the old one off (you'll need some snap ring pliers ... like these):


Using a Dremel Drill motor with a 90 degree elbow accessory and an abrasive disk
I opened up the slots that are in the center hub, kind of shows here:
The black marks in the middle show where I opened up the slots.  Then, I put it back onto the shaft, and took a piece of snap blade (about 1/2" long)
and hammered it in between the flat side of the shaft and the wheel (be careful ... sharp ... I used the Dremel grinder wheel to grind the outside straight so I could tap it in).  Then, I took a small hose clamp with a 1/4" bolt head (don't know the exact size as it was just in my junk bin)
and put it over the plastic hub and tightened it.  You'll need a 1/4" closed end ratcheting wrench like this to do the tightening:
Yes ... I know it says 3/4" in the picture ... get one that fits your clamp ... usually 1/4" ... got mine from Harbor Freight.

Anyway, once tight, reinstall the snap ring and put it back together ... good as new ... should last 10 more years until the actual motor burns out.

cheers

tpg















Thursday, November 17, 2016

The AWS-3 Auction and the Spectrum Reallocation Fund ... ITC2016

I attended the 2016 International Telemetry Conference in Glendale Arizona.  On Tuesday the 8th of November 2016, Mr. Derrick Hinton honored us with a presentation on the funding that is occurring due to the AWS-3 Auction and the impact of the Test Ranges.  I was so impressed with the presentation, I contacted Mr. Hinton and asked for a copy of the presentation and permission to post it on my blog so that it got some additional distribution.  

I guess it starts off with a bang in that the USG thought it would bring in from 10 to 18 billion, but instead it brought in 43 billion.  So from that, funding is working it's way to the ranges.

PDF File is here

This is shared by permission of it's author, Derrick Hinton, and retains all copyright.

Wednesday, October 19, 2016

GPS and Cell Phones

There seems to be some misunderstanding when it comes to GPS and cell phones.  I have found posts which say "GPS is GPS" and others that think "just ask your provider".

First ... remember this ...

In the frequency allocation filing for GPS signals, the L1 C/A power (that the commoner uses) is listed as 25.6 Watts (14 dbW).  The Antenna gain is listed at 13 dBi.  Thus, based on the frequency allocation filing, the power would be about 500 Watts (27 dBW).


Now, the free space path loss from 21000 km is about 182 dB.  Take the 500 Watts (27 dBW) and subtract the free space path loss (27 - 182) and you get  -155 dBW.  I remember reading that this is analogous to trying to read a book in the dark, but with one candle lit 100 miles away.  Bottom line ... GPS is a weak signal.

The receiver that accepts that GPS signal is influenced by software processing, cost of GPS chips, the noise that is generated in the front end receiver section of the chip, and the noise in the demodulation section, as well as the actual antenna that receives the signal (and it's size and cost).  

So, when testing and measuring a receiver, you spec things like capture performance (what signal level takes how many seconds), MDS (minimum discernible signal), and tracking performance ... and NONE of that is listed on OEM web sites.  Thus, we haven't a clue how good a phone is.  

If I were to GUESS, I'd say that the more you pay for the phone, the better the GPS performance will be.  The phone I used for my WAZE display is a LG Volt LS740, and I can tell you that it's GPS capability is worse then many other cells I've tried ... but it's good enough during dry and clear conditions.  Give it fog or rain, and the signal capture is very poor.

If you want the best GPS signal you can get with a cell, consider adding on the blu-tooth accessory ... like the XGPS150A ... it is a GPS receiver, dedicated, and provides a better GPS signal to your phone.  Or do some googling and find sites that say the iPhone has the best GPS receiver.  Bottom line ... it's a guess.

Thursday, September 29, 2016

WAZE and the ultimate display ?

OK ... maybe "ultimate" isn't there (ultimate would be a combining glass), but this is REAL close.  

I first tried mounting a 7" tablet in the center of the car console, suspended from the CD slot (holders available in eBay), but I found that to be too large as it got in the way of the radio. So I removed that and just used my phone ... which is a Samsung Galaxy Note 3 (sometimes it would lose GPS lock by sitting/lying on my seat ... or being in the cup holder).  I decided that the ideal spot for a display was right above my "4 wheel drive" button, to the left of the radio, because even if it got in the way of that button, I only have to press that button once or twice a year in winter (to get in and out of my driveway).  After looking at a few ways to mount a cell phone there, I decided on the WizGear unit:



The WizGear applies a flat metal piece (using double-backed tape) to the phone, and the round mount uses a "rare earth" magnet (Neodymium), and while I don't know it's gauss rating, all but the heaviest cell phones will stay in place.

Now, with the WizGear, the mounting for it assumes a flat surface, and the RAV is NOT flat there ... it is slightly curved.  So I used a piece of 3M 5952 Black VHB double-back foam tape on one half of the existing mounting tape, which gave it an orientation closer to "curved" ... and mounted it above the "4 wheel drive" button.

I tried using my phone, but it has a 5.7" display, which puts it into "phablet" territory ... and that size was too large.

I decided the answer was a smaller phone ... but I like my "phablet" (and wasn't going to change) so decided to use a "mini-tablet" ... and that is a cell phone.  So I searched eBay for "bad IMEI" (which means it cannot be used directly as a cell phone, but it's WiFi and BluTooth work just fine) and found an LG Volt LS740 with a bad IMEI ... it only costs $30.  



While my ageing eyes cannot read everything on the display, I find that I only need to hear the prompts ... and see if the next move is a right or left turn ... which even in this crappy picture, you can see easily.

To get power to it, I ran a power cord up, but it took several days to do that because I had to use Silicon cement ... but could only apply it about 3 inches at a time due to the curves involved.  So I taped the cord in place, and would glue only 2 to 4 inches of it every 24 hours.  Then, when that would dry, I'd apply different tape and glue another 2 to 4 inches.  After about a week, the whole cord was in place and secure.

Living with the LS740 cell phone didn't work out ... that model is crap ... lousy GPS signals, bad data points (Waze would always generate bad information, assuming I had transported 200' to a side road).  But it proved that the architecture would work ... and work well.  And while GPS ratings are NOT available on cell phones, I did find evidence that the Nexus 5's GPS is very good ... so I found a "bad IMEI" Nexus for $60 and installed that in place of the LS740 ... huge improvement in reliable GPS.

This has made me a much safer driver because now I don't ever need to look down to see my cell on the seat beside me, and the GPS directions are always right ... Waze is instead right in line with my vision ... and it's easy for me to hit the necessary points on the GUI to report accidents or to thank someone who has spotted something of interest.

UPDATE:

Other day, I was driving to work and I took this picture from the drivers seat:


You can clearly see my Waze display easily "in view" while if you zoom in on the drivers windshield in front of me, you'll see his cell phone and charger cable in his way for good vision:
LOL ... he's going to get a ticket driving like that.



Saturday, August 27, 2016

SHB, or Secure Hardened Baseline

Overview:
On November 20, 2015, the DoD put out a memo affecting all computers and computer-centric systems.  It mandates that all computing equipments that runs Windows must run Windows-10 ... and not just Windows-10, but Windows-10 Secure Host Baseline, or SHB ... and security is provided by "Level 2" STIGs.

Security Technical Implementation Guides (STIGs):
STIGs are guidelines on how to setup the configurations of software, and they are available for most of the common software and applications we all use daily.  What is not generally known is that STIGs come in two (2) levels ... first, there are the STIGs you and I can get (PA, or Publically Available), and the second level at the ones that require a CAC card ...they are FOUO, or For Official Use Only.  

The Differences between the STIGs:
While I do not know (or could even talk about) are the "exact" differences, but people I have talked to say, basically, "If you implement the PA STIG,s, the 'vast majority' of FOUO STIGs are addressed".

When is SHB required?
The memo I talked about at the introduction says it best ... repeating it here:

This memo serves as notification that the DoD will direct Combatant Commands,
Services, Agencies and Field Activities (CC/S/As) to rapidly deploy the Windows 10 operating system throughout their respective organizations starting in January 2016. This applies to all DoD information systems currently using Microsoft operating systems. The Department's objective is to complete the deployment by January 2017. The CC/S/A's are encouraged to begin planning for this upgrade to include developing cost estimates.

The Defense Information Systems Agency (DISA) and National Security Agency (NSA)
are co-leading ajoint Secure Host Baseline (SHB) working group to prepare a Windows 10
Standard Desktop framework. The WIN 10 SHB will bring consistency to DoD host security
configuration management activities and will be available to CC/S/A's on DISA's Information
Assurance Support Environment Portal site at http://iase.disa.mil, in January.

A Secretary of Defense Execution Order will be forthcoming with details on the release
of the Windows 10 SHB. Once the order is published, it will be CC/S/A's responsibility to
implement and promulgate the image across their respective organizations by January 2017.  CC/SIA Chieflnformation Officers will have limited waiver authority over their respective implementation plans on a case-by-case basis for up to 12 months. Any waivers over 12 months must be approved by the Department of Defense Chief Information Officer (DoD CIO).

What I have been told is that waivers will be almost impossible to get, and that anything that has Windows on it, WHETHER OR NOT IT IS CONNECTED ON A NETWORK, must have Windows-10 and the SHB.  

Validation:
Another interesting part is the STIG validation. As you research this, you'll find XML files to help you validate.  But what I found interesting is this ... suppose you are implementing the STIGs and you get to the STIG that says something like "Support Floppies" and the STIG says "set to NO".  When you validate your software, if you have not changed it from YES to NO, the fact that it is set to YES is a "finding" ... a point against you.  Now the interesting part ... if you don't even find the setting in the registry, that is a "finding" as well, and a point against you.  Therefore, in this case, you MUST CREATE THE FIELD IN THE REGISTRY AND SET IT TO NO ... because not having it in there is like a YES ... and it is a finding.

Hope this helps someone.

Wednesday, June 29, 2016

Finding Polybutylene (PB) pipe

Found a small section of PB pipe in my house ... supply to the dishwasher.  The dishwasher sprung a leak, and I decided to replace it rather than fix it.  

Researched PB pipe and found out:

1) it's mostly the chlorine and UV that caused the problem.
2) I have a well, so no chlorine
3) the only PB pipe is under the counter, so no UV
4) thus, I can leave it if I want.
5) Even though PB fittings "seem" to work with pipe thread, the thread pitch is different.
6) I left the PB connection to the water lines in place and just used the PB pipe, about 8 inches, as a stub out.
7) Slide on a SharkBite U4008LFA fitting on the PB side

So, continuing on ... 

8) On other side of fitting, installed a 1/2" PEX line (SharkBite U860R2)about 12" long
9) On the 12" PEX, installed a BrassCraft model G2PS14XC1 valve with a 3/8" compression on other end, which then goes to the dishwasher line.
10) And as most surely know, dishwashers use a garden hose connection, so you use a dishwasher connection kit with the elbow and 3/8" hose you need.

Friday, May 2, 2014

Retrofitting a Kubota B6200 Tractor ... or ... Percolator to Water Pump

In the early days of Kubota, many of their machines were designed with a percolator cooling system. My Kubota B6200 is an early model and indeed, one of those.  While it's been a great machine, the radiator sprung a leak and you cannot find the radiator (or easily find a shop anymore that will fix them).  You see, pre serial number 60000 used the 15751-72060, while later ones used 15531-72060 (the big difference you can easily see is that the early ones have the top hose connection straight in while the later ones have the top hose coming out at a 45 degree angle).  In looking into the situation, I found a junk dealer that would sell me the parts to change the front gear cover so it would have a water pump.  Some lessons learned include:
  • your going to need to build 2 custom tools out of sockets (more on that later).
  • using heat to expand parts works better than anything for removing stuck parts
  • use taps and dies to clean all your bolts and threads before putting everything back together.
  • The fitting in the side of the engine is a 1" 11.5 TPI part, so instead of buying a tap and die to fit those, to clean up the threads, I bought regular pipe nipple and cape, and cut grooves into them and made a poor man tap and die.
  • Use Messicks for parts (they send parts breakdowns in PDF ... very handy).
  • don't rush.
Tear down:

For tear down, drain the oil and water.  Use an impact wrench for most of the large bolts.  The hardest part of the tear down was the harmonic balance wheel (060) and front PTO flange assembly (090).  The mechanic told me they slide right off, but mine were too tight for that. When you get the radiator and front grill off (you need the room, so spend the extra hour and remove them), you take out the three bolts on the front PTO flange (100 & 110).

Now you have to put a torch on the PTO flange and get it good and hot.  Then, I tapped the top front of the PTO splines, rotated the crankshaft 90 degrees and tapped it again, then another 90 and tap ... and just continue until you see the flange start to separate from the harmonic balance wheel.  Then, I slide a large flat tip screwdriver between the two and both pried there, as well as grabbed the flange with gloved hand and while rocking the flange, pried them apart (no rust ... just a tight fit).

Then, remove the center bolt on the harmonic balance wheel and use a wheel puller to get it off. Again, a mechanic told me it too slides off, but I needed a wheel puller.


Once those are off, you start taking off all the parts that obviously come off.  The parts you'll need are:

From Autozone, a Duralast 15340 V belt (old one is 31" ... you need a 34" belt)
15531-72060 - Radiator (got mine from a junk yard, but new ones are available for a few dollars more)
15752-04020 - Gear case front (got mine from a junk yard)
15531-72910 - Water Flange Assembly (got mine from junk yard)
15973-64010 - Dynamo (old one will not work ... junk yard part also)
16851-73270-620 - Thermostat Gasket
15676-73430-620 - Water Pump Gasket (replaces 15531-73430)
15676-04130-620 - Gear Case Gasket (replaces 15676-04130-620)
15296-88130-620 - Engine RPM sensor (replaces 15221-88130)
15263-72920-620 - Water Flange Gasket (replaces 15261-72920)
04811-06130-620 - 3 each ... O rings
15531-73013 - Thermostat
15531-73350 - Top Return Hose
15752-72850 - Bottom Return Hose (short one)
15877-04140 - Crankshaft Oil Seal
15752-72940 - Radiator Hose

The hardest part was the crankshaft oil seal.  You see you need both the newer one and the older one.  You remove all the rubber from the new one, tap or press it in, and then the older style smaller one presses into that.

As long as all surfaces are clean, you won't need any RTV or gasket sealer.  Torque all 10MM bolts to 7 ft lbs and nothing leaked.  Pressure test your new radiator ... AutoZone rents out pressure testers for a deposit, but free as you get the deposit back.

Runs great.  Nice and cool.

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